Archive for the ‘Equipment’ Category
Three additions to your medical kit
March 11th, 2011
Disclaimer: I’m not a physician. You should discuss the recommendations below with your physician and make sure you understand the side effects and contraindications for these medications.
Expedition medical kits should contain drugs and equipment that people know how to use. So there’s no way to come up with a “standard” kit. In the book I discuss a number of different drugs that might be useful. I want to point out three drugs that might not be on your radar screen for your next trip.
Tinidazole is used to treat Giardia infections and amoebic dysentery, both of which are common visitors in an expedition. I recommend this drug because it replaces metronidazole (Flagyl), which has been the standard treatment in the US for many years. A single dose of Tinidazole is all that’s needed to treat Giardia. It will be much cheaper to buy it abroad. Buy enough to treat dysentery.
The Advair inhaler literally got me to the top of Mount Everest. The circular, purple plastic case contains powdered steroids that you inhale. The steroids then directly affect the respiratory system without having the nasty systemic effects of other steroids. It’s most effective against the dry, hacking high-altitude cough that often strikes on bigger peaks. It’s not for pulmonary edema or ‘wet’ coughs. It’s not needed on trips to the USA or Canada and one of these is enough for a small expedition. Take along an albuterol inhaler as well. You should buy these in the USA. The Advair is not cheap but you won’t care about the cost if you actually need it. Both require prescription and unfortunately you won’t find any scientific research to back up my recommendation.
The Khumbu cough in action above Dingboche, Nepal
I mention Viagra/Cialis in the book. You should carry some in case somebody develops high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) and you don’t feel comfortable administering Nifedipine. Nifedipine can cause a catastrophic decrease in blood pressure and the patient must be properly monitored as the drug is given. Viagra and Cialis don’t cause this systemic drop in blood pressure but still may reduce pulmonary pressures. Unfortunately at least 20% of the population won’t respond to Viagra/Cialis so it’s not a magical cure. Definitely buy these drugs in the USA/Canada.
There are other medications for high-altitude illness, gastrointestinal infections, respiratory infections, etc. etc. so this is not a complete listing.
For these and any other drugs you carry, keep them in the original containers with your name on it if your transporting it to another country. Package to drugs carefully as transport can turn pills to powder. And ask the pharmacist for the original instructions that came with the medication—not the printout that they normally give you these days. The original sheet will have all of the side effects, contraindications, interaction warnings, and so on.
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Boots and crampons for high altitude
November 1st, 2010
I write about what I use, and I buy what I use. No freebies or sponsorship. Other gear might work as well or better for you.
The Olympus Mons (left) and Trango Extreme (this model discontinued)
In 2005 I was climbing unroped with a 40 lb. load, heading for Camp 1 on Broad Peak. After climbing a couple of 40 degree sections of water ice, I was glad to set foot on snow again. At that precise moment, I felt something rattle on my one foot. I looked down and saw that one crampon had fallen apart, the two pieces dangling from the straps. A nearby climber gave me a hand and it was soon fixed. The problem? The quick release mechanism (which adjusted the length) popped open when used on my very big high altitude boots. If this had happened 20 feet lower on the water ice… That’s when I got serious about building a boot/crampon system that was bombproof yet light and precise.
The Petzl Sarken crampon. Other bindings available.
On both K2 and Everest I used a two boot/ two crampon system. At lower altitudes, the Trango boot and Petzl Sarken crampons were a nice combination of warmth, durability, and technical agility. I must admit that on Everest I actually used M10 crampons as my previous Sarkens had been recalled. Petzl anti-balling plates are far superior to the Charlet plates on the M10s. The vertical front points on the Sarkens climb ice as well as a technical crampons, at least when using both the heel bail and toe bail binding. I would have used the Sarkens up to Camp 3 on K2 with warmer boots.
Once above 6700m the Trango boots simply aren’t warm enough and I switch into my La Sportiva Olympus Mons boots. I’ve used both these boots and the Millet Everest boots and prefer the Olympus Mons. They fit my feet better (the most important consideration), they are not nearly as bulky, and they allow me to do more technical climbing. Both crampons mentioned above fit these boots though you may have to whittle the heels down a little bit if you use a lever style heel bail. The lacing system on the Olympus Mons is unique but functions quite well as long as you don’t try to figure it out at 7500m. The outsole is quite fragile (in an effort to save weight). If you travel on rocks you’ll chew it up quite quickly.
Camp XLC Nanotech crampon with a replacement strap
The Camp XLC Nanotech crampons are aluminum with steel reinforcement under the front points. They are amazingly light and about as durable as you would expect for such a soft metal. They worked well on the Olympus Mons and I wore them from Camp 2 to the summit and back on Mount Everest, and from ABC to C2 and back on K2. They wear down very quickly if you have to expose them to rock; they would probably make one round-trip on K2. Of course weight is the primary issue and saving a pound on your feet is worth the price in this case. But you couldn’t use them as your everyday crampons in an expedition situation. For a single ascent without much technical climbing they will do just fine.
Retailers are quite happy to sell you way too much boot, pricewise. Know the worst condition you can reasonably expect to encounter and buy appropriately. If you’re stomping up Aconcagua or an easy trekking peak, a pair of plastic double boots are generally sufficient (and half the price of the specialized high altitude boots).
The front points are reinforced and hold up well. The points are worn down to nubs after K2 and Everest!
Make sure your crampons fit your boots! This may seem a no-brainer, but there are a lot of folks who don’t discover this problem until it’s too late. You may have to trim the boot heel a bit. The type of strap/bail system use use will depend on the boots and crampons you have, as well as personal preference.
Finally, make sure you have the tools needed to adjust your crampons, as well as replacement bolts etc. On Broad Peak I removed the quick-release clamps and bolted the suckers together. No more crampon disintegration.
Tags: gear
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