Archive for May, 2009
A synopsis of the past ten days
May 12th, 2009
This last trip up the mountain saw the heavy lifting done and all gear is almost in place for a summit attempt. I’ll spare you the gory details at the moment, and any ethical whining. Just some simple facts, a couple of observations and a correction.
The correction: the Europeans involved in the accident in the icefall (there were two) are both still in Base Camp (as of 5/9). Sorry, my info was incorrect. This is one reason I don’t mention other people’s names, usually. I was told that a video of the avalanche is on YouTube. Wouldn’t surprise me…
On May 6 I carried three bottles of oxygen to the Base of the Geneva Spur. I wanted to get them to the South Col (7900m), but ran out of time so left them with a stash of oxygen left when Scott and Phil’s Sherpas were whacked by a freak windstorm a few days earlier. They tell me the bottles are at about 7800m and maybe an hour from the Col.
Why so slow? Well, I spent a lot a time coughing (not an irrelevant issue), I didn’t crowd the Sherpas ahead of me on the ropes and spent too much time waiting for them, and winds filled in the tracks on the gently rising traverse that makes up much of the route. In any case, next time things will go a lot faster. I spent about 4 hours today writing out my notes for that day and determining ways to improve my performance.
I’ve spent three nights at Camp 3 (7100m/ 23,300 ft), nine nights at Camp 2 (6400m/ 21,000 ft), two nights at Camp 1 (5900m/ 19,400 ft). Oh, and 16 nights at Base Camp (5400m/ 17,700 ft). Camp 2 and 3 are ready for me, and I only have to get my oxygen a bit higher to use it on summit day. That can be done on the summit push itself.
I’m resting now (more on that next post) and all teams are waiting on a decent weather forecast. There is no rush, as we have over 2.5 weeks and more before time begins to run out.
Photos: Remember to click on the picture shown to get a larger photo.
khumbu_icefall3.jpg: In the Khumbu Icefall, with some better detail of the structure of the icefall. All the guys pictured are Sherpas carrying loads.
yellowband.jpg: Sherpas traverse the Lhotse Face and surmount the Yellow Band. Compare to the earlier Lhotse Face photo. Geneva Spur on the very left, with distorted perspective.
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more to come
May 9th, 2009
I’m back in Base Camp after many days on the mountain. All’s well (mostly), I did what I needed to (mostly), and I’m heading down to Dingboche (4300m/ 14,100 ft) for a stiff dose of oxygen and I hope, warmth.
A stiff dose of reality. Yesterday, a massive ice avalanche from the hanging glacier on the West Ridge pasted the lower part of the route up the icefall. One European was injured, and sadly a Sherpa died. I’m sure you can get the details elsewhere. They were trying to recover his body as I came down from C2 this morning.
My condolences to both families. More info on the Sherpa as I get it. Ian from the AJ team let the deceased man’s cousin use a sat phone to call home from C2 last night.
No amount of risk management can stop such an overwhelming avalanche. Unless you stay home all the time. But then, how much are you living?
Photos to come
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Weather Woes
May 4th, 2009
Unstable weather has kept me from reaching Camp 4. On May 1 I carried three oxygen bottles to Camp 3. Today (May 3) I left Camp 2 with all of my camping gear, headed for Camp 3. By the time I reached the fixed ropes the weather was worsening by the minute. So I turned around, as did everyone else. Many Sherpas were up high, but everyone returned to Camp 2 safely despite the incredible winds.
I’m in Camp 2 for another night, and I’ll try to stay in Camp 3 tomorrow. After my oxygen is in Camp 4 I can come down and rest before the summit push.
(This dispatch was dictated to Mike’s wife, Kathy, via satellite phone.)
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